Hand-cranked and Handmade

Stitching Through History

The history of hand-cranked chainstitch embroidery machines is closely tied to the evolution of sewing machines and decorative stitching during the 19th and early 20th centuries. These machines represent a key chapter in industrial design, textile art, and mechanized embroidery.

The first chainstitch sewing machine is credited to Thomas Saint in 1790, but it wasn't until the mid-1800s that practical versions were built. Barthélemy Thimonnier (France, 1830s) developed a working chainstitch machine used for military uniforms. Early machines used a single thread and a hooked needle to create the chain-like loop, laying the groundwork for embroidery machines.  

Hand-cranked embroidery machines became popular in the late 1800s to early 1900s.  These machines were manually operated via a side crank and required great skill to "draw" freehand designs—similar to sketching with a pen. Often used in tailor shops, boutiques, and by artisans, they could embellish garments, uniforms, and textiles with names, monograms, and decorative motifs.

The Revival of an Art Form

Chainstitch embroidery became a favoured method for decorative sewing due to its flexibility and visual appeal. Machines like the Singer 114w103 and similar models became iconic in the early 20th century. Especially in Western wear and motorcycle culture, chainstitch logos and backpatches became an art form in themselves.

The Hand-cranked Difference

Kirsten sews on a Mauzer Chainstitch embroidery machine.  Each piece is created using a handle mechanism under the machine that rotates 365 degrees clockwise or counter-clockwise, which guides the machine. Using the handle to create lettering or simple line designs is challenging to learn. In order to fill in a larger area with thread, the operator has to create hundreds of barely overlapping circles. This method of filling not only takes a lot of practice and skill, it also gives the embroidery a texture that is instantly recognizable. This gives each piece a unique and distinctly handmade feel.